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Secluded, shell-strewn Sanibel and Captiva Islands offer the optimal uncluttered, sophisticated beach retreat. These subtropical isles, connected to the mainland by a scenic three-mile causeway, are the southernmost in a chain of barrier islands stretching along the southwest coast.

In this minimally developed paradise you will find no traffic lights, skyscrapers, neon signs, or chain restaurants. Zoning ordinances mandate that all human-made structures blend naturally into the wilderness environment. A national wildlife refuge takes up a major portion of Sanibel Island. Home to roseate spoonbills, egrets, herons, alligators, and otters, the J.N. "Ding" National Wildlife Refuge offers guests open-air tram rides with a naturalist on board. Visitors can also drive, bike, walk, or canoe the winding water and land routes.

World-renown as a spectacular shelling destination, Sanibel's beaches run for 12 miles along the south. With more than 275 shell types washing ashore, this island is considered the best site in the nation for collecting shells, and third best in the world.

At the other end of the pleasure spectrum, Sanibel also has plenty of chic shops, galleries, restaurants, and resorts. All are artfully sheltered from the roadway by lush canopies of majestic palms, Australian pines, and bright floral blooms.

Captiva Island, ranked as one of the country's most romantic beaches, is located toward Sanibel's northern tip, connected by a short, picturesque bridge. According to legend, Captiva Island got its name when pirate Jose Gaspar kept beautiful women captive here in the late 1700s. Today Captiva's white beaches are legendary.

More remote than Sanibel, Captiva Island abounds with outdoor beauty. It was in this peaceful haven that Anne Morrow Lindberg, wife of the well-known aviator, penned "A Gift from the Sea," her best-selling memoir. The contemplative volume includes chapters such as, "The Beach," "Moon Shell," and "Oyster Bed," reflecting the treasures to be discovered here. This tiny sliver of land contains four miles of sandy beaches.

Off the coast of Captiva and Sanibel, part of Florida's Tropical Island Getaway, are more than 100 islands. Many are uninhabited mangrove clusters, while others boast spectacular beaches.

A major attraction on Captiva is the South Seas Resort, a huge luxury resort with a busy marina at the northern tip of the isle. From the marina, Captiva Cruises launches boat rides to many of the outer islands, including Cabbage Key, where Jimmy Buffet is said to have written the words to the popular song "Cheeseburger in Paradise." Other cruise destinations are Useppa Island, Boca Grande, and Cayo Costa Island. On almost every trip, cruisers spot dolphins jumping playfully in the wake of the vessel.

For dining, a fun place to enjoy a hearty meal and a quirky environment is at Captiva's Bubble Room, which features memorabilia from the 1930s-1950s. The unique decor captures the anything-goes-attitude of this tropical island hideaway. Another favorite is Mucky Duck, on the Captiva waterfront, specializing in tantalizingly fresh seafood.

Sanibel Island offers a wider array of dining and lodging options. For award-winning gourmet dining, try Chez Le Bear at the Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa. They also offer a dinner cruise aboard a custom-made yacht.

To reach this Gulf of Mexico getaway, 17 miles southwest of Fort Myers, take Interstate 75 to Exit 21 (Daniels Parkway) west to Summerlin Road. Get on the Sanibel Causeway, pay the $3 round-trip toll, and cross into the coast of seashells.

Periwinkle Drive is Sanibel Island's main thoroughfare. It leads to Gulf Drive, which is lined with lodging to fit the needs of any type of visitor. In Captiva Island, Captiva Road is the major passageway. A friendly Visitor's Center is posted on the causeway on the way to the island.

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